This
was again a group tour organized by BirdingBreaks.nl, with Laurens
Steijn as tour leader. We followed the often-used itinerary East and
South of Addis Abbeba, including mountainous areas and plateaus as
well as sites down in the Rift Valley. Practically all sites are
described in Where to watch birds in Ethiopia by Spottiswoode et al.
(2010). See the map and the daily log below for the specific sites we
visited.
Although
we had birded in Kenya and several other parts of Africa, Nollie and I
managed to get a hundred lifers on this trip. Ethiopia has many
specialties for the birder, thanks to its elevated location and to the
isolation of several Rift Valley branches between those mountainous
areas. The trip total was 452 species, and we also saw over thirty
mammal species, of which Ethiopian Wolf is the most impressive of
course. Redman et al. (2009) Birds of the Horn of Africa was our field
guide. We had brought our telescope and we regularly used it.
During
the first half of the trip we had a comfortable mid-size bus (window
seats for all ten participants), the second half we were driven in
four excellent 4WD cars because the roads were not so good there
(mainly in the Southeast of our round trip). The weather was good all
the time, although the landscape was a bit dry compared to what
friends had seen in November. We only had rain one evening and one
late afternoon, and the birds were noticeably more active that next
morning. Nevertheless, we hardly missed any specialties possible on
this standard 2-week itinerary, thanks to the
constant efforts of tour leader Laurens, Ethiopian guide Negussie and
the participants to find as many specialties as possible. The local
guide of Wondo Genet (McKennon) produced our last three lifers of the
trip, and the attentive drivers found our only Ruspoli's Turaco's.
On
average, accommodation and food were a bit disappointing. We mostly
had the best accommodation available, and our rooms often looked not
too bad but appeared to be poorly maintained, especially the bathroom
(maybe we were just unlucky). The accommodation in Negele (an
essential place for Sidamo Lark) is notoriously basic, but something
better seems under construction now. Meals
often consisted of pasta with sauce, but whenever possible we opted
for the ‘fasting’ injerra, a tef pancake with an assortment of
lentils, vegetables, sauces, etc. Beer and bottled water were widely
available.
Only
back home I learned what the population size of Ethiopia is. I had
expected it to be something like 30 million or so, but it is a
staggering 88 (now possibly 90) million. We hardly saw any other
employment than agriculture, shopkeeping and some trade. So I wonder
what all those youngsters and children that we saw along the roads,
are going to do when they are grown-up. Nevertheless, I enjoyed the
sights of the rural life along the roads, and I took many pictures
from the bus/car (see the street life photo section). |
Species
list
(excel; provided by tour leader Birdingbreaks.nl; daily checked with
the group)
or
choose this somewhat simpler species list
Daily log:
Day
1 - 24 Feb Amsterdam
– Addis Abbeba
Got visa and changed euros at airport after arrival. Ghion hotel
Addis.
Day
2 – 25 Feb Addis Abbeba
– Debre Birhan
Birded a bit in hotel garden before breakfast, then onto Debre Birhan
with some stops, e.g. near an abattoir. After check-in at Eva hotel of
Debre Birhan went to Ankober Escarpment for Ankober Serin.
Best species (* = lifer for
Nollie and me):
Blue-winged Goose * - easy though not numerous.
Lammergeier
Wattled Ibis * - commonly seen from the road.
White-backed Vulture
Rueppell's Griffon
Augur Buzzard
Verreaux's Eagle - great
shows of two at Ankober escarpment cliff.
White-collared Pigeon * - numerous at some locations.
Dusky Turtle-Dove * - at stop towards Debre Birhan.
Black-winged Lovebird * -
hotel garden Addis.
Nyanza Swift * - on our way to Ankober Escarpment.
Mottled Swift * - on our way to Ankober Escarpment.
Thick-billed Raven * - mainly at the abattoir.
Rock Martin Ptyonoprogne
fuligula obsoleta – the dark subspecies.
Ethiopian Cisticola * - at stop towards Debre Birhan.
Brown Parisoma/Warbler * (the Bale mts. subspecies) - hotel garden
Addis.
Abyssinian Slaty-Flycatcher * in
hotel garden
pre-breakfast, one of the first endemics of the trip.
Rueppell's Robin-Chat *
Abyssinian Black Wheatear * - along
road to Ankober escarpment.
Pied Wheatear
Red-breasted Wheatear -
several along road to Ankober escarpment.
Moorland Chat
White-winged Cliff-Chat * - along road to Debre Birhan.
Groundscraper Thrush
Mountain Thrush * - hotel garden Addis.
Broad-ringed (Montane) White-eye * split from Kikuyu White-eye of Mt.
Kenya.
Red-throated Pipit
Ortolan Bunting
Cinnamon-breasted Bunting
Ankober Serin * - c. 10 at Ankober Escarpment.
Abyssinian Siskin * -
several groups along the road (esp. next day).
African Citril * - along road to Debre Birhan.
Brown-rumped Seedeater * - to Debre Birhan.
Swainsons Sparrow * - common
Day
3 – 26 Feb Debre Birhan
More plateau, escarpment, and also down to Rift valley East of
Ankober.
Best new species for the trip:
Rufous-breasted Sparrowhawk -
on return from Rift Valley to Debre Birhan.
Martial Eagle
Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove
Red-bellied Parrot
White-bellied Go-away-bird
Half-collared Kingfisher -
along small river down in Rift valley branch.
African Pygmy-Kingfisher
Blue-breasted Bee-eater
Hemprich's Hornbill -
at descent into Rift Valley.
Greater Honeyguide
Ethiopian Boubou * - in bush of Rift Valley.
Sulphur-breasted Bushshrike
Turkestan Shrike
Dwarf Raven * - 2 at plateau after Debre Birhan.
Erlanger's Lark * - 1 clearly at plateau after Debre Birhan.
Stout Cisticola
Red-faced Crombec -
down in Rift Valley.
Rueppell's Black Chat * - at
descent into Rift Valley.
White-rumped Babbler * -
at descent into Rift Valley.
Red-winged Starling
White-billed Starling * - male seen.
Scarlet-chested Sunbird
Mountain Wagtail
Long-billed Pipit
White-throated Serin/Seedeater * - at descent into Rift Valley.
Little Weaver
Rueppell's Weaver
Yellow-bellied Waxbill -
at descent into Rift Valley.
Day 4 – 27 Feb Debre
Birhan – Awash NP
Mostly travelling, lunch at restaurant in Nazret with very birdy
shaded garden. First stops in acacia savanna. Lava field produced
hoped-for Sombre Rock Chat. Inside Awash NP, got Arabian Bustard
very quickly. Night in Awash Falls lodge.
Best new species:
Abdim's Stork
Black-breasted Snake-Eagle
Long-legged Buzzard
Steppe Eagle
Booted Eagle
Secretary-bird
Pygmy Falcon
Arabian Bustard * - Awash NP
Northern White-faced Owl * - briefly seen by N (not J) along the road,
at dusk.
Alpine Swift
Blue-naped Mousebird
Black-billed Barbet * - in wooded garden of
Nazret restaurant at lunch.
Grey-headed Woodpecker
Southern Grey Shrike Lanius
meridionalis pallidirostris
Grey-backed Fiscal
Somali Fiscal * - in Awash NP along dirt road.
Woodchat Shrike
Northern White-crowned Shrike
Mosque Swallow
Red-fronted Warbler
African Grey Flycatcher
Siberian Stonechat
Sombre Rock Chat * - in lava field on our way to Awash NP.
Blackstart - in lava field
on our way to Awash NP.
Little Rock-Thrush -
on pole along road when leaving Debre Birhan.
Wattled Starling
Violet-backed Starling
Nile Valley Sunbird * - at stop towards Awash NP.
Beautiful Sunbird
White-bellied Canary
Chestnut Weaver * - in Nazret restaurant garden (imm. male).
Orange Bishop
Green-winged Pytilia Pytilia
melba sudanensis
Day 5 – 28 Feb Awash NP
Pre-breakfast walk near lodge. More acacia savanna, and a more grassy
plain with 4 bustard species. Lunch at old Kereyou lodge with its
fabulous view across the broad gorge. Nollie got her 4500th
lifer here (Horus Swift). Impressive sight of Slender-tailed Nightjars
above the river at dusk.
Best new species:
Pallid Harrier
Ovambo Sparrowhawk
White-bellied Bustard
Buff-crested Bustard
Spotted Thick-knee
Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse -
grassy plain in Awash NP.
Slender-tailed Nightjar
Horus Swift * - at lunch, across gorge.
Woodland Kingfisher
Black-billed Woodhoopoe * - during
walk outside lodge Awash NP.
Abyssinian Scimitar-bill -
grassy plain in Awash NP.
Nubian Woodpecker
White Helmetshrike
Slate-coloured Boubou
Rosy-patched Bushshrike
Gillett's Lark * - on old
air field Awash NP.
Grey Wren-Warbler
Ashy Cisticola * - grassy plain in Awash NP.
Buff-bellied Warbler
White-browed Scrub-Robin Cercotrichas
leucophrys leucoptera
Rufous Chatterer
Rueppell's Glossy-Starling
Somali Bunting * - on old air field Awash NP.
Cut-throat
Day 6 – 1 March
Awash NP – Lake Langano
Some more birding in Awash NP (Hartlaub’s Bustard). Lunch at Nazret
again. Some more stops, and at end of afternoon a very productive
visit to Lake Ziway. Night at Lake Langano resort.
Best new species:
African Pygmy-Goose * - Lake Ziway.
Hottentot Teal
Montagu's Harrier
Long-crested Eagle
Hartlaub's Bustard * - Awash NP morning.
Lesser Jacana * - Lake Ziway.
Marsh Sandpiper
Pectoral Sandpiper (only
the 2nd for Ethiopia, see photo section)
Collared Pratincole - at
river stop.
Striped Kingfisher
Northern Carmine Bee-eater * - stop somewhere along the road, in
hamlet.
Abyssinian Ground-Hornbill
Yellow-breasted Barbet * - Awash NP morning.
Black-headed Batis * - wooded garden Nazret restaurant
lunch.
Black-headed Wagtail
Reichenows Seedeater - at
river stop.
Black-cheeked Waxbill * - Awash NP morning.
Day 7 – 2 March Lake
Langano – Goba
First some birding in acacia woodland around the resort, then on to
the Bale mountains. One of the stops produced my 4500th
lifer (White-headed Vulture). At Dinsho HQ of Bale Mts NP a visit to 2
owl species and some more birding in the woods. Wabe Shebelle hotel in
Goba. After dinnner Nollie and I were treated for our 4500s with a
specially decorated cake! (Dutch Birding has
a Club4500 for worldbirders, 4500 being ten times the once max number
of species for Holland.)
Best new species:
Clapperton's Francolin * - at lodge grounds Lake Langano.
White-headed Vulture * - on our way to Bale mts NP.
Rouget's Rail * - along road near Bale mts NP.
Cape Eagle-Owl - on our
way to Bale mts NP.
African Wood-Owl -
near Dinsho HQ of Bale mts NP.
Abyssinian Owl * - near
Dinsho HQ of Bale mts NP.
Abyssinian (Montane) Nightjar * - near Dinsho HQ of Bale mts NP.
Von der Decken's Hornbill -
at lodge grounds Lake Langano.
Silvery-cheeked Hornbill
Bearded Woodpecker - at
lodge grounds Lake Langano.
Red-billed Chough
White-winged Black-Tit * - good views in Bale mts NP forest zone.
White-backed Black-Tit * - in woodland of Lake Langano resort, in
front of our room.
Brown Woodland-Warbler
Eastern Olivaceous Warbler
Cinnamon Bracken-Warbler
Abyssinian Catbird * - near Dinsho HQ of Bale mts NP.
Northern Black-Flycatcher
Mocking Cliff-Chat
Abyssinian Ground-Thrush * - near Dinsho HQ of Bale mts NP, at small
dump.
Abyssinian Longclaw * - along road near Bale mts NP.
Yellow-crowned Canary * - in woodland of Lake Langano resort (?).
Day 8 – 3 March Bale
mountains
First woodlands at base of Bale mts again, then up to the Sanetti
plateau (over 4000 m altitude). Good views of Ethiopian Wolf. Plateau
too dry for Spot-breasted Lapwing/Plover, so down again to Dinsho
where we got 74 of them at a pond. Same hotel.
Best new species:
Moorland Francolin * - a few on Sanetti plateau.
Chestnut-naped Francolin * - several small groups on Sanetti plateau.
Lappet-faced Vulture
African Goshawk Accipiter
tachiro unduliventer * - in forest zone of Bale mts NP.
Lanner Falcon
Spot-breasted Plover * - 74 at marshy pool near Dinsho, below Bale
mountains.
White-cheeked Turaco * - in forest zone of Bale mts NP.
Day 9 – 4 March
Goba – Negelle
Changed from our bus to four 4WD cars for the rest of the trip. Across
Sanetti plateau again, into the forests on the other side. Some stops
in the excellent forest, but would have loved to stay there longer.
Field lunch in acacia
savanna, then on to a Prince Ruspoli’s Turaco site, a woody hamlet
so it seems. Got them thanks to the drivers! Very basic Nile hotel in
Negelle.
Best new species:
Little Sparrowhawk
Mountain Buzzard * - in forest zone on SE side of Bale mts NP.
Imperial Eagle
Lesser Kestrel
Grey Kestrel
Blue-spotted Wood-Dove
Bruce's Green-Pigeon * - along the
road to Negele.
Prince Ruspoli's Turaco * - a small group at open woodland hamlet
along road to Negele.
Grey-headed Kingfisher
Abyssinian Woodpecker * - Bale mts NP forest East side.
Grey-headed Batis * - at a few stops along road to Negele (forest and
savanna)
Pygmy Batis
Grey-headed Bushshrike
Abyssinian/Dark-headed/Ethiopian Oriole * - Bale mts NP forest East
side.
African Black-headed Oriole
Black Sawwing Psalidoprocne
pristoptera prostoptera
Northern Brownbul
Rufous-tailed Rock-Thrush
Abyssinian (White-breasted) White-eye
Golden-breasted Starling
Shelley's Starling * - in savanna near Negele.
Slender-billed Starling * - small group in flight, but well seen.
Hunter's Sunbird
Red-headed Weaver
Day 10 – 5 March Negelle
First to the short-grass plain at c. 10 kom from Negele, and got the
critically endagered Sidamo (Liben) Lark before field breakfast made
by the drivers. Then to some acacia savanna for Salvadori’s
Seedeater which we got indeed thanks to the Pearl-spotted Owlet tape
(and got the owl itself too). More acacia savanna birding,
got Don-Smith nightjar at dusk. Same hotel.
Best new species:
Black-winged Lapwing
Temminck's Stint
Temminck's Courser
Pearl-spotted Owlet
Donaldson-Smith's Nightjar * - hunting at dusk over savanna dirt road.
Foxy Lark
Sidamo (Liben) Lark * - after a search on the open grassy plain near
Negele.
Somali Short-toed Lark * - same area as Sidamo L.
Ethiopian Swallow * - on a wire between Barn Swallows.
Somali/Acacia/NGreat Tit
Tiny Cisticola * - 'savanna valley' near Negele.
Pale Flycatcher
Spotted Morning-Thrush
African Bare-eyed Thrush
White-crowned Starling * - several on the ground and in bushes, also
the following day.
Plain-backed Pipit
Salvadori's Seedeater * - 'savanna valley' near Negele.
Shelley's Rufous Sparrow * - right along a track we walked.
Day 11 – 6 March Negelle
– Yabello
A long but beautiful travel day with some good stops in acacia
woodland, e.g. for Stresemann’s Bush-crow. Last part on asphalt
again, stayed in Yabello motel.
Best new species:
Vulturine Guineafowl
Yellow-necked Francolin
African Hawk-Eagle
White-winged Collared-Dove * - on the ground below some trees across
Dawa river.
D'Arnaud's Barbet
Black-throated Barbet
Pringle's Puffback * - in bushland along road to Yabello.
Black Cuckoo-shrike
Stresemann's Bush-Crow * - striking views along road.
White-tailed Swallow * - flying around us on open savanna.
Dodson's Bulbul *
Somali Crombec * - at short savanna walk after lunch
Bristle-crowned Starling
Magpie Starling * - at Dawa river.
Grey-capped Social-Weaver * - in small tree right along the dirt road
we walked in open savanna.
Black-capped Social-Weaver
Juba Weaver * - at riverine woodland (across river).
Day
12 – 7 March Yabello
Due to rain showers at past night there was much bird activity in the
beautiful acacia woodlands near Yabello. In afternoon, long walk for
Somali Courser, but not found. Same hotel.
Best new species:
Gabar Goshawk
Three-banded Courser
Three-streaked Tchagra
Red-naped Bush-shrike * - at
special stop for this species, just somewhere in the woodland.
Short-tailed Lark * - as reward after the long walk for the courser.
Banded Parisoma/Warbler * - one of the first birds, near Yabello.
Scaly Chatterer * - afternoon stop in acacia woodland.
Northern Grosbeak-Canary * - at the Red-naped Bush-shrike stop.
Day
13 – 8 March Yabello –
Lake Awassa
Some more acacia woodland birding, then up to rather densely populated
plateau (2000 m) . At afternoon birding near Pina hotel at Lake
Awassa.
Best new species:
Bare-faced Go-away-bird * - in
sloping open woodland, before road climbed up to plateau.
Double-toothed Barbet
Rufous-necked Wryneck
Lesser Swamp-Warbler
White-browed Robin-Chat
Day 14 – 9 March Lake
Awassa – Wondo Genet
To the fish market area, mainly for
the productive wetland border (Allen’s Gallinule, rail) and the old
open woodland (Banded Barbet). On to Wondo Genet, where we had a
productive walk uphill in very degraded forest (only a few trees
remain), with a light rain in the last hour of the walk. Night at Wabe
Shebelle Wondo Genet.
Best new species:
Scaly Francolin
African Rail * - at marshy shore of Awassa lake.
Allen’s Gallinule * - at marshy shore of Awassa lake.
Greater Painted Snipe
Lemon Dove
Tambourine Dove
Yellow-fronted Parrot * - Wondo Genet walk uphill.
Banded Barbet * - near fish market, old open woodland.
Lesser Honeyguide
Eurasian Wryneck
Grey Cuckoo-shrike
Red-shouldered Cuckoo-shrike * - Wondo Genet walk uphill.
Spotted Creeper * - Wondo Genet walk uphill.
African Hill Babbler
Sharpe's Starling * - Wondo Genet walk uphill.
Abyssinian (Fawn-breasted) Waxbill
Estrilda (paludicola) ochrogaster * - at reeds near fish
market.
Day 15 – 10 March Wondo Genet – Addis Abbeba
More birding uphill from the hotel, then on to Addis with some stops.
E.g. again at Ziway. Hora crater lake had 1000 Little Grebes! Rooms
for a shower & packing etc. in hotel near airport, then on to
airport for flight back home, arriving next day in Amsterdam.
Best new species:
Banded Snake-Eagle
Klaas's Cuckoo
Yellowbill - rare in
Ethiopia
Scaly-throated Honeyguide
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