| Southern France: Alps, Crau, Béziers, Causses 23 June - 7 July 2012 |
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Birding trip report -
John van der Woude www.jvanderw.nl
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| Nollie and I made an early summer trip to southern France, by car and from hotel to hotel, in fine weather. We had consulted our friend André for birding sites, and successfully used Crozier's birdwatching guide for southern France. Of course in the Alps the plant life was very rich at this time of year, and we saw many butterflies. Halfway the trip we stayed a few nights in a nice cabin at the Chasteuil campsite in the Gorges du Verdon where we visited relatives on holiday. |
| Our best birds were Wallcreeper, Bonelli's Eagle, Lesser Kestrel, Rock Partridge (heard only), Little Bustard, Pin-tailed Sandgrouse, Great Spotted Cuckoo, Alpine Swift, Roller, Calandra Lark, Short-toed Lark, Tawny Pipit, Dipper, Alpine Accentor, Rock Thrush, Orphean Warbler, Lesser Grey Shrike, Iberian Shrike, Woodchat Shrike, Nutcracker, Snow Finch, Citril Finch, Rock Sparrow, Ortolan Bunting, Rock Bunting. This is more than we had expected. Apparently late June/early July is still a good time, and not only in the Alps. |
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captions below for more info about the sites and the sightings. At the bottom is an annotated species list, with English and Dutch bird names. |
 1 = Vercors 2 = Col du Lautaret & Galibier 3 = Col d'Izoard 4 = Queyras-Ristolas 5 = Col de Vars 6 = Col de la Bonette 7 = Bachelard gorge & Col de la Cayolle 8 = Gorges du Verdon 9 = le Crau 10 = les Alpilles 11 = Lespignan 12 = Causse Blandas 13 = Causse Méjean 14 = Gorge de la Jonte |
 First stop: the Vercors park, with a large group of Alpine Swift overhead. Note the narrow road right, the first of many such roads to come. |
 Also our first Alpine (Yellow-billed) Choughs (Alpenkauw), in the Vercors. |
 Col du Lautaret. Lesser Redpoll, and with time for a longer walk Ring Ouzel is said to be possible here too. |
 Wheatear seems a bit paler grey here. |
 Col du Galibier. Snow Finch and Alpine Accentor at the Chalet du Galibier (the building in the foreground). |
 The first of several chamois (gems), in front of the snow field. Below Col du Galibier. |
 Alpine Lily. |
 The 'desert' just East of the Col d'Izoard. Wallcreeper should occur on the rocks rising from this 'desert', but we did not find it here (we scoped from the road). We had our first Nutcrackers flying around the tree line. |
 Col d'Izoard as seen early morning from the viewpoint just above the pass. Heard our only Rock Partridge of the trip, calling from the huge slope which just begins on the lefthand side of the photo. |
 Alpine Marmot was common at most cols (passes). |
 In the Queyras park, near Ristolas. Another chance for Rock Partridge here, but we did not hear it or see it (scoping from the road). |
 Grey Wagtail sunbathing in the early morning. |
 Alpine meadow on a short walk to the "Petit Belvédère" (for Mount Viso) above Ristolas in the Queyras regional nature park. Nutcracker was stealthily moving around in the open forest. |
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 Back at the start of the Belvédère walk near Ristolas, we saw many butterflies (at c. 1700 m above sea level). From left to right: Swallowtail (Koninginnepage, Papilio malachaon), Knapweed Fritillary? (Knoopkruidparelmoervlinder, Melitaea phoebe), an Erebia (meolans?), a Pyrgus (dikkopje), Idas Blue? (both sides; Vals heideblauwtje, Plebeius idas), Black-veined White (Groot geaderd witje, Aporia crataegi). Elsewhere on this trip, we saw the impressive Apollo butterfly several times, and many Great Banded Grayling (Witbandzandoog, Brintesia circe). See also the two butterfly photos further below (Scarce Swallowtail and Southern White Admiral). |
 Col de Vars SE of Guillestre. Several Ortolan Buntings singing here in competition, at midday. One even singing from the ground. |
 Up to the Col de la Bonette, the 'highest surfaced road of Europe' (2800 m at the pass), and hence good for Snow Finch too. |
 Near the pass of the Bonette. Snow Finch photos below were taken here. |
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 Nice plants here in the barren environment of the Bonette. Toadflax (leeuwebek) above and gentian below. |
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 In the Bachelard gorge S of Barcelonette we were lucky to spot a male Wallcreeper closeby. |
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 Going higher up from the Bachelard gorge. Rock Bunting here (photo below). |
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 Stop at a classic rural French restaurant terrace, at Four St. Laurent below the Col de la Cayolle. |
 A walk at the tree line of Col de la Cayolle produced our best sightings of Citril Finch (and Crossbill). |
 Scarce Swallowtail - Koningspage Iphiclides podalirius |
 The very scenic Gorges de Daluis South of Guillaumes (which is S of Col de la Cayolle). Peregrine here. |
 Near the Gorges du Verdon. |
 Gorges du Verdon. |
 Verdon river seen from above. |
 Griffon Vultures perched on a rock wall in the Verdon gorge, and in flight above the gorge. |
 Nollie on the foot bridge at the bottom of the Verdon gorge. |
 Our walk along the bottom of the Verdon gorge. Remarkably cool at some spots, and hence (?) Wrens etc. |
 In the Crau plains 3 km SW of Entressen. Iberian (Southern) Grey Shrike. At this eastern end of the Crau plains we saw more bushes than at the western end (S of St. Martin de Crau), where the official reserve walk from a parking lot is (for which permits can be obtained at the Ecomusée in the western end of St. Martin, Monday - Saturday 9-17h; 3 euro pp, valid for two days). |
 Juvenal Great Spotted Cuckoo, in the company of at least four Magpies (this cuckoo is brood parasite on Magpie). At the SE border of Entressen village. |
 Calandra Lark at the Crau plains 3 km SW of Entressen (far more heard and seen here than at the more western part S of St. Martin). |
 Short-toed Lark was at both ends of the Crau (SW of Entressen, and S of St. Martin). |
 Roller was locally common in the border areas of the Crau. |
 Impressions of the Crau plains. Around 8.00 h in the morning we had four times Pin-tailed Sandgrouse flying overhead, the largest group being 6 individuals. All four groups along the official reserve walk. |
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 Tawny Pipit was rather common in the Crau, and often singing, in display flight. |
 Three Little Owls on an old barn in the Crau. |
 Lesser Kestrel was present in small colonies at both ends of the Crau. |
 Our scope view of Little Bustard at the Crau reserve S of St. Martin, from the hide in a barn. It is the small dot just below the middle of the photo! The bird (a male) was often typically bobbing its head. |
 View from the Alpilles onto the Crau plains and even the Camargue in the distance. |
 Our site for Bonelli's Eagle (photo below) in the Alpilles. |
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 Southern White Admiral - Blauwe IJsvogelvlinder Limenitis (Ladoga) reducta |
 From a few websites we had learned that SW of Béziers, near Lespignan, Lesser Grey Shrike and other nice species were possible. It is a moist, flat area between the hills. It is partly cultivated with vineyards, so it took some time to find the right place, with the help of a local winegrower who exactly knew which species we were looking for. |
 Lesser Grey Shrike. |
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 Cirl Bunting was common here too, as was Ortolan Bunting, Golden Oriole, Bee-eater and Fan-tailed Warbler. Also our only Turtle Dove of the trip here. |
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 Between the vineyards we also had Hoopoe. |
 "Bien étonnés de se trouver ensemble". Is Hoopoe so small or is this a very big hare? |
 The air above this moist area of Lespignan was full of Swifts. |
 Causse de Blandas, with the famous Cirque de Navacelles. |
 Red-backed Shrike (above) and Woodchat Shrike (below) on the Causse de Blandas. |
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 On the Causse Méjean, North of Meyrueis (where we again stayed at the lovely hotel Mont d'Aigoual; good food too). Rock Thrush, Ortolan Bunting, Red-backed Shrike, Tawny Pipit and Orphean Warbler at this spot SW of Nivoliers. |
 Rock Sparrow was easy to find in the small villages we visited on the Causse Méjean (Drigas, Hures, Nivoliers). Once we knew their calls well, we heard them also in some rocky areas outside the villages. |
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 Ortolan Bunting. |
 Rock Thrush. |
 Feather Grass gives the Causse Méjean a particular appearance. |
 Red-billed Chough (Alpenkraai) above the Causse Méjean. |
 Causse Méjean at the western end of the so-called Nîmes-le-Vieux karst rock formations (where we dipped both Blue Rock Thrush and Western Black-eared Wheatear this time, although we probably heard the thrush singing once). |
 At the Griffon Vulture rock wall in the Gorges de la Jonte. |
 Griffon Vulture in the Gorges de la Jonte at Le Truel. One of the last birds of this succesful trip before we hit the toll road A75 for driving back home. |
| Species list |
Koereiger Cattle Egret
Kleine Zilverreiger Little Egret
Grote Zilverreiger Great White Egret
Blauwe Reiger Grey Heron
Purperreiger Purple Heron - Crau and Lespignan
Ooievaar White Stork - Crau
Bergeend Shelduck
Wilde Eend Mallard
Zwarte Wouw Black Kite - far more common than Red Kite
Rode Wouw Red Kite
Vale gier Griffon Vulture - Verdon gorge, Jonte gorge
Slangenarend Short-toed Eagle - 2 Alpilles
Sperwer Sparrowhawk
Buizerd Buz zard
Havikarend Bonelli's Eagle - 2 adults Alpilles (+ poss. 1 subad.)
Kleine Torenvalk Lesser Kestrel - Crau Entressen and reserve
Torenvalk Kestrel
Slechtvalk Peregrine
Steenpatrijs Rock Partridge - heard calling Col d'Izoard
Rode Patrijs Red-legged Partridge - a few times, mainly Crau.
Kwartel Quail - flushed at 4 m on Causse de Blandas; also heard above Lautaret!
Fazant Pheasant
Waterhoen Moorhen
Meerkoet Coot
Kleine Trap Little Bustard - Crau reserve, scoped from barn hide
Steltkluut Black-winged Stilt
Griel Stone Curlew - Crau reserve a few pairs
Zwartkopmeeuw Mediterranean Gull - Crau, Lespignan
Kokmeeuw Black-headed Gull
Geelpootmeeuw Yellow-legged Gull
Lachstern Gull-billed Tern - group passing by on Crau
Witwangstern Whiskered Tern - Lespignan
Pin-tailed Sandgrouse Witbuikzandhoen - Crau reserve sev. groups, largest group 6 indiv.
Holenduif Stock dove
Houtduif Wood Pigeon
Turkse tortel Collared Dove
Zomertortel Turtle Dove - Lespignan 1 in flight
Kuifkoekoek Great Spotted Cuckoo - juvenal at Entressen, 1 at Crau reserve
Koekoek Cuckoo
Dwergooruil Scops Owl - heard Verdon gorge campsite
Steenuil Little Owl - 3 on barn Crau reserve
Bosuil Tawny Owl - heard Verdon gorge campsite
Ransuil Long-eared Owl - heard at Pra Loup Barcelonnette
Gierzwaluw Swift - common, also in the gorges (and then between Alpine S)
Alpengierzwaluw Alpine Swift - groups at Vercors, gorges and Alpilles
Bijeneter Bee-eater - only at Lespignan
Scharrelaar Roller - many in the Crau, a few at Lespignan and southern causses
Hop Hoopoe - a few, e.g. at Lespignan (see photos)
Groene Specht Green Woodpecker
Zwarte Specht Black Woodpecker - heard Pra Loup Barcelonnette
Grote Bonte Specht Great Spotted Woodpecker
Kleine Bonte Specht Lesser Spotted Woodpecker - Verdon gorge, Lespignan
Kalanderleeuwerik Calandra Lark - sev. at Crau S of Entressen
Kortteenleeuwerik Short-toed Lark - sev. at Crau both sides
Kuifleeuwerik Crested Lark - remarkably few, mainly Crau and Blandas.
Boomleeuwerik Wood Lark - rather common
Veldleeuwerik Sky Lark - many! (at all open areas)
Rotszwaluw Crag Martin - rather common at rocky habitats
Boerenzwaluw Barn Swallow
Huiszwaluw House Martin - also at gorges (natural habitat)
Duinpieper Tawny Pipit - sev. singing Crau (both sides), also on Causses.
Boompieper Tree Pipit
Waterpieper Water Pipit - sev. singing above tree line Alps
Grote Gele Kwikstaart Grey Wagtail - sev. along streams
Witte Kwikstaart White Wagtail
Waterspreeuw Dipper - only seen along Guil river NE of Guillestre
Winterkoning Wren
Heggemus Dunnock - remarkably: at tree line in Col de la Cayolle
Alpenheggemus Alpine Accentor - Col du Galibier, Col d'Izoard
Roodborst Robin
Nachtegaal Nightingale - many shortly calling, a few singing
Zwarte Roodstaart Black Redstart - common at rocks and in towns
Gekraagde Roodstaart Redstart
Paapje Whinchat - a few only
Roodborsttapuit Stonechat - a few only (Lespignan, Causse Méjean)
Tapuit Wheatear - common above tree line and at causses
Rode Rotslijster Rock Thrush - Col du Galibier, Col dÍzoard, Causse Méjean.
Merel Blackbird
Zanglijster Song Thrush
Grote Lijster Mistle Thrush - sev. sites, small groups.
Cetti's Zanger Cetti's Warbler - Crau, Lespignan
Graszanger Fan-tailed Warbler - common Lespignan
Orpheusspotvogel Melodious Warbler - Crau, common Lespignan.
Provencaalse Grasmus Dartford Warbler - Alpilles a few
Orpheusgrasmus Orphean Warbler - one singing Causse Méjean (and seen)
Grasmus Whitethroat - Col de la Cayolle
Tuinfluiter Garden Warbler
Zwartkop Blackcap
Bergfluiter Bonelli's Warbler - common
Tjiftjaf Chiffchaff
Vuurgoudhaan Firecrest - Verdon gorge
Grauwe Vliegenvanger Spotted Flycatcher - Lespignan
Staartmees Long-tailed Tit
Glanskop Marsh Tit
Matkop Willow Tit
Kuifmees Crested Tit
Zwarte Mees Coal Tit
Pimpelmees Blue Tit
Koolmees Great Tit
Boomklever Nuthatch - below Col de la Cayolle
Rotskruiper Wallcreeper - Bachelard gorge S of Barcelonnette
Taigaboomkruiper Treecreeper
Boomkruiper Short-toed Treecreeper
Wielewaal Golden Oriole - sev. Lespignan
Grauwe Klauwier Red-backed Shrike - rather common
Kleine Klapekster Lesser Grey Shrike - Lespignan a few
Iberische Klapekster Iberian Shrike - one at Crau S of Entressen (photo above)
Roodkopklauwier Woodchat Shrike - a few at Causse Blandas
Gaai Jay
Ekster Magpie
Notenkraker Nutcracker - Col d'Izoard and Ristolas (Queyras)
Alpenkauw Alpine (Yellow-billed) Chough - groups above tree line and Vercors
Alpenkraai Red-billed Chough - a few groups, esp. at Causses
Zwarte Kraai Carrion Crow
Raaf Raven
Spreeuw Starling
Huismus House Sparrow
Ringmus Tree Sparrow
Rotsmus Rock Sparrow - common in small villages Causse Méjean N of Meyrueis
Sneeuwvink Snowfinch - mainly Col du Galibier and Col de la Bonette
Vink Chaffinch
Europese Kanarie Serin - common in villages
Citroensijs Citril Finch - mainly Col d'Izoard and Col de la Cayolle
Putter Goldfinch
Kneu Linnet
Barmsijs Redpoll - Col du Lautaret and elsewhere
Kruisbek Crossbill - at tree line in cols
Geelgors Yellowhammer
Cirlgors Cirl Bunting - sev. heard, few seen
Grijze Gors Rock Bunting - up from Bachelard gorge (see photos above)
Ortolaan Ortolan Bunting - esp. Col de Vars, Lespignan and Causse Méjean
Grauwe Gors Corn Bunting - common in open areas
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