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Venezuela
1994, part 2
Friday
4 March, Hato El Frio. |
 Before
breakfast, we birded a few meters around the lodge, especially near the
pond (part of an old river branch, still in use probably during the wet
season; photo), surrounded by big trees: Orinoco Goose*, Bare-faced
Ibis*, Green Ibis* (difficult to tell apart if we are not
nearby). We also saw the first Capybara's, the huge rodents. Further bird
species were: Wattled Jacana*, Black-Collared Hawk*, Pied
Water-Tyrant*, Amazon Kingfisher, White-winged Swallow, Hoatzin*
(a bit ordinary birds though), Fork-tailed Flycatcher. There were
caymans too, very nearby, and we suspected one having snapped a small bird
just before we had time to identify it. But a while later, we saw the bird
again: Yellow-throated Spinetail*. Meanwhile, it is becoming clear
that the birds are really tame here (even the birds of prey). Before
walking back to breakfast, we still saw Green Heron, Green
Kingfisher, Roseate Spoonbill, Oriole Blackbird*
(large!), Turkey and Black Vulture, and Tropical Kingbird. |
| Then,
from 8.30 h to about 12, we had our first excursion with the local guide
Rafael, in a four-wheel drive car. Right from the start it was clear that
he is real birder, keen to show also the small birds, and gifted with a
sharp eye. He knows only the Spanish bird names, but can point them out
quickly in the field guide. This first trip was heading north for some 15
km through the Hato towards the river Apure. This is the more wooded part
of the Hato (photo left), although we crossed several more open parts too.
We saw Saffron Finch, Vermillion Flycatcher*, Buff-necked
Ibis*, Savanna Hawk*, Southern Lapwing*, Brazilian
Duck*, American Woodstork, White-faced Whistling-Duck*,
Jabiru, White-necked Heron (Cocoi Heron), Groove-billed Ani, Scaled
Dove. Driving through a narrow road with bushes on both sides we spotted Barred
Antshrike* and Ruddy Ground-Dove. Then came the first Sharp-tailed
Ibis* and Rufescent Tiger-Heron*, two very typical Llanos
species. In an open part of this savanna we met a pair of Double-striped
Thicknee*. Further on, in wetter parts, we saw White-headed
Marsh-Tyrant*, Harris Hawk, Maguari Stork, Pied Lapwing*,
Little Blue Heron, Anhinga, Black-bellied Whistling-Duck,
Yellow-headed Caracara, Ringed Kingfisher, Large-billed Tern*,
Great Blue Heron. Again in some bushes along the road, between the marhes,
we spotted the Pale-headed Jacamar*, one of the endemics of
Venezuela. At the turning point of the excursion was a pond with a small
colony of Boat-billed Heron*. There we also saw Laughing Falcon,
Rufous-vented Chachalaca, Osprey, Grey-necked Woodrail, and
a 4 m long Anaconda! The snake moved slowly through a muddy spot where we
could walk up to a few m from it. At the river Apure we had no success in
seeeing River Dolphins, the water level being too low for that in this
season. During the faster drive back we still spotted Lineated
Woodpecker, Rufous-tailed Jacamar and Yellow-rumped Cacique*. |
| We
had the afternoon excursion from 15.30 h to about 19 h. A group of three
German couples had arrived just before, and with them we were to share the
remaining three excursions. Although they knew very little about birds,
they were interested so that we didn't feel embarrassed to stop for small
birds too. Also, Rafael the guide stays a birder primarily, but is keeping
a sort of balance in the excursion by stopping also a while for the bigger
caymans etc. However, during those stops, there are always some birds to
observe nearby. |
|
Before
breakfast I birded a bit in the immediate vicinity of the station/lodge: Plain-fronted
Thornbird* at a huge nest of sticks, Common Tody-Flycatcher,
Stripe-backed Wren, Yellow-rumped Cacique, Anhinga, Ruddy Pigeon*,
Yellow-headed Caracara and Red-crowned Woodpecker.
|
 The
morning excursion was to a Woodstork colony (photo) in a bush in a sort of
lake, N of the main road, and again through savanna. After spotting a
juvenile Black-crowned Night-Heron, we could observe, not far after
leaving the main road, two Aplomado Falcons* chasing two
White-tailed Hawks in order to defend their nest tree. Before reaching the
Woodstork colcony, we noted Green Ibis and White-bearded Flycatcher*,
and on the way back Sharp-tailed Ibis and Lesser Nighthawk. The
Germans are really getting interested in birds, partly thanks to our
translations and comparisons with European birds. However, you wonder why
people are travelling so far in order to look at a Southern Lapwing here
without apparently even knowing their own European lapwings. |
|
After
lunch and a little rest I couldn't resist birding some more in the
immediate vicinity of the station, this time more between the large trees
near the pond. There I spotted very closely a Crane Hawk* on a low
branch, a beautiful bird when seen against a dark green background. It
resembles a crane both in colour and long legs. Further species were
White-bearded Flycatcher, Stripe-backed Wren, Solitary Sandpiper and
juvenile Green (Striated) Heron. Also, after the often fruitless efforts
of identifying thrushes at Rancho Grande, it was nice to see an
unmistakable Bare-eyed Thrush*. In general, the birds seem to
remain active most of the day here.
The
afternoon excursion appeared to go again through the open savanna, this
time heading for a night roost of all sorts of Herons and Ibises, and
again at the South side of the main road. First we drove very slowly
through the same spot where I had just been. After spotting skillfully the
Howler Monkeys, Rafael showed us Roadside Hawk, Crane Hawk and
Black-collared Hawk together. We marvelled at a Groove-billed Ani with a
frog hanging from its mouth. At a pool near the farm Bare-faced and Glossy
Ibis stood together. Then we went on through the swampy capybara and
cayman land and noted Little Blue Heron, juvenile Striated (Green) Heron,
Brazilian Duck, Red-breasted Blackbird*, Black-bellied Whistling
Duck, White Ibis, Spotted Sandpiper, Cattle Egret, Pale-vented Pigeon, Eastern
Meadowlark, Eared Dove, Amazon Kingfisher. Rafael made a detour
to show us a roost of Pauraques, in an open field with low shrubs of 40 cm
in the middle of nowhere, but accidentally near to the place where just
then the annual stick hunt on Capybara's took place. An awful but
impressive sight. They take yearly 5 % from the 20.000 or so on this hato
(ranch) alone, during three days.
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After
dinner we talked with Ramon, the director of the station, about what to do
the next day. During a three-night stay (from after lunch on the first day
till after lunch on the fourth day) you are entitled to have six
excursions. Only, in this season the two boat excursions are not possible
because of the low water levels in this season. But it is good to make a
walk on your own, so we decided to do that the next morning. We asked him
further what makes this lodge a biological station. We didn't see any
researchers nor special equipment or rooms for research. It appears that
the main things that can be offered to researchers apart from the lodging
and food, are a car and a local guide to point out places of special
interest.
Before
breakfast I made a little walk alongside the farm next to the station:
White-bearded Flycatcher, Yellow-rumped Cacique, Striped-backed Wren,
Green-rumped Parrotlet, Ringed Kingfisher, Troupial, Saffron Finch, Green
Kingfisher, Ruddy-breasted Seedeater* (male and female, low in the
bushes), Orange-chinned Parakeet.
After
breakfast we made the walk proposed by Ramon. It follows a dirt road that
starts between the station and the farm, and runs north of the chain of
old river ponds towards a true forest plot some 2 or 3 km West of the
station. On the way forth we kept to the ponds as close as possible, on
the way back we took the dirt road itself. The wind was rather strong
today, but nevertheless we noted many species (we noted all species seen
this time). On the way towards the forest plot: Bare-faced Ibis, a
hummingbird (dark green), Yellow-crowned Night Heron, Savanna Hawks, Black
Skimmer, Brazilian Duck, Roseate Spoonbill, White Ibis, Yellow-browed
Sparrow*, two Jabiru's, Anhinga, six Black-crowned Night-Herons
together, Wattled Jacana's (we have seen a few thousand of them altogeter
here I guess), American Woodstork, two Limpkins*, Great White
Egret, Cattle Egret, White-necked Heron (Cocoi Heron), Great Blue Heron,
Rufescent Tiger Heron, White-tailed Hawk, Fork-tailed Flycatcher, Great
Black Hawk*. In the forest plot we saw Green-rumped Parrotlet, Little
Blue Heron, Grey Kingbird, a tree full of Black-crowned Night
Heron, Ruby-Topaz Hummingbird, Hooded Tanager* (male and
female), Bananaquit, Ruddy-breasted Sparrow, Common Tody-Flycatcher,
Northern Waterthrush, Roadside Hawk, a large group of Hoatzins in a large
tree (some 30), Yellow-rumped Cacique, Blue-grey Tanager. Additional birds
on the way back: Southern Lapwing, Sharp-tailed Ibis, Black-bellied
Whistling Duck, American Stilt, Solitary Sandpiper, Pied Lapwing, Scarlet
Ibis.
After
the last lunch we left for Barinas. Up to Mantecal the road was in
excellent condition. The road from Mantecal to Bruzual is notoriously bad,
that is with many stretches with holes. Driving here is not a real
problem, you only have to take time for it. And this we would have done
anyhow, as this is also a famous birding road. The scenery is about the
same as the open savanna part of Hato El Frio, but more cultivated, with
square dug-out ponds along the road. Here we saw 'all the herons
etcetera', also the Jabiru. From only 10 m distance we saw Grassland
Yellow-Finch* very well. Further on we saw a lone tree full of Shiny
Cowbirds and Carib Grackle, this would fit nicely in a remake of
Hicthcock's The Birds. We also noted a pair of Blue-black Grassquit.
During
the last two hours we drove through a beautiful tropical scenery with more
trees, heading along the more winding of the two roads towards Barinas,
where we arrived at sunset. It took us some time to find the hotel
reserved for us, and after checking in we had to drive into the centre of
the city again to find a restaurant as our hotel's restaurant was closed
that day. But we managed to find a nice and busy 'pizzeria' restaurant
where we could sit outside and have a lomito, near to our car. The hotel
(International) has a quiet location and a closed parking lot.
From
the hotel, it was easy going into the Santo Domingo Valley. The first site
(at 8 a.m.) was the famous 'Rio Barragan bridge',but we were really
disappointed. Where there should be manakins (NE of the road), we saw only
freshly planted coffee on rather barren soil between the trees left.
Nearby we saw a forest fire, a sad view. Nevertheless it was nice to see
some species of the coastal cordillera again. We saw Crested Oropendula*,
Silverbeak Tanager, White-chinned Sapphire*, Black Phoebe,
American Redstart (several), Green-rumped Parrotlet, Red-crowned
Woodpecker, Northern Waterthrush. Also on the SW side of the road (at the
river) there was not much to see.
Further
into the valley, we took the road to Altamira. This winds through heavily
forested coffee plantations. At the first stop there, after some 2 km, we
only saw Silverbeak Tanager, and down by the river Buff-throated Saltator,
American Redstart, Black Phoebe, Blue-and-White Swallow, Yellow-bellied
Seedeater*, Summer (or Hepatic?) Tanager and Bananaquit. We
then drove on to the quiet village, where we drank coffee and tea in the
neat shop on the first right-hand corner of the central plaza. To our
surprise, a Hermit hummer came in shopping for insects along the shelves.
This is the 'limpiacasa' (house-cleaner, Sooty-capped Hermit*). On
the way back to the main road of the Santo Domingo Valley we now knew
better where to bird, that is where you can look more horizontally into
the trees in stead of only high up, and where you can park the car. We
noted Blue-grey Tanager, Collared Trogon (female), Amazilia spec., Blue-necked
Tanager*, Bay-headed Tanager, Southern Rough-winged Swallow, Palm
Tanager, Elaenia spec. (flycatcher), Yellow-legged Thrush*, Scaled
Piculet* (clambering like a very small woodpecker indeed), and Thick-billed
Euphonia*.
Then,
at about noon, we drove on towards the so-called San Isidro tunnel track,
where we should have plenty of time to see Cock of the Rock (COTR) around
16 h We easily found the steep cement road to the left (there are three
warnings before with 'Peligro - camiones'). The personnel of the quarry,
where the cement/dirt road ends, was really very nice to us, helped us
e.g. in finding the best spot for the car, in front of the office, and
wished us good luck. So we did not at all have to worry about the safety
of the car. After crossing the quarry we were kept busy some time by the
sound of a hidden bird in the steep, green righthand side of the track, a Mountain
Wren*. The track looks promising, it is a nicely wooded side valley,
but this time of the day (around 14 h) is not the best time of course in
this environment. As usual, we heard some birds now and then that we could
not spot, and we really wanted to find out already where the end of the
track and the COTR lek would be. A few 100 m before the brook crossing we
spotted a possible COTR on the opposite side of the brook valley.
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Heading
back on the track a bit, we discovered an Emerald Toucanet, and
finally heard a strange sound that might be COTR. And indeed, we found the
lek after climbing down a steep path that starts at a knickpoint of the
main track, with some grass in a triangle, a few 100 m. back from the
brook crossing. At least ten COTR males kept each other busy with their
performances, and we clearly observed that they had fixed positions on the
branches, taken over and over again after hopping or flying towards the
rivals. But it is not possible to have them all, or even the majority, in
view at the same time, because of the leaves. Moreover, you have to keep
quiet. In the beginning, when we were still looking around for the best
spot, they were a bit disturbed, and hided themselves for us.
We
stayed there from 15.50 till 16.30 h and when we had to leave they were
still busy, although a bit less intensively. On the way back we identified
a new hummer, the Green-fronted Lancebill*, with its incredibly
thin bill.
Back
on the main road, we drove up further. After a few km. we crossed a brook
with a small chapel pressed against the steep side of the road. We stopped
a few minutes here and saw three lifers: White-capped Dipper*, Slaty-backed
Chat-Tyrant* and Gray-chinned Hermit*.
Then
we went up towards the paramo. We missed the Torrent Duck at the site
mentioned in all three sources.). After entering the hotel room (Los
Frailes, a former monastery) we spotted a Great Thrush* at dusk.
First
thing in the morning, we strolled a bit around the hotel, which is
situated in a shrub and pasture zone of the paramo, with pines: Rufous-collared
Sparrow, Andean Siskin*, White-throated Tyrannulet*, Tyrian
Metaltail*, Brown-bellied Swallow*, Slaty Brush-Finch*, Brown-backed
Chat-Tyrant*.
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We
spoke a while with dr. Carlos Rivero Blanco, the biologist in charge of
the Sierra Nevada National Park (where we are now) as well as the visitor
centre. There was a nice exhibition, demonstrating how life in the paramo
has been adjusted to the temperature extremes of day and night. Then we
drove a bit down and had a lunch in Apartadero. After us, a group of
tourists, probably most of them birders, entered the restaurant. They took
an awful lot of time for ordering their meals, everything on the menu had
to be translated. We were glad to be on the road soon again.
We
headed for the pass a few miles in the direction of Timotes. At the pass,
we took a small road to the left and entered a superb type of paramo, with
frailejones of more than man size. The dump uphill around the corner
should be good for birding, but the smell was too terrible. Going down
again towards Apartadero we stopped at several sites and walked a few 100
m around. All this paramo up from Apartadero was nice birding: Andean
Tit-Spinetail*, Ochre-browed Thistletail, Paramo Pipit*, Bar-winged
Cinclodes* (several), Streak-throated Bush-Tyrant* and American
Kestrel.
Before
dinner I looked around the hotel a while again, and saw, in addition to
the birds of this morning, Streak-throated Bush-Tyrant, White-capped
Dipper, the wren-like White-browed Spinetail*, many Great Thrush,
and a Black Phoebe in the hotel court.
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Across
the pass towards La Grita (the actual border of Tachira), we parked the
car after a few hair-pin turns, and this too appeared to be a fine spot
for birding (again in dwarf forest with small pastures): Orange-throated
Sunangel*, chased away by a Coal-black Flowerpiercer*. The
hummer was apparently sucking from the holes made by the flowerpiercer in
a flower with a very long calyx. But there was more: Citrine Warbler*,
White-throated Tyrannulet, and yes, two Red-crested Cotingas*,
together in the top of a small tree, one nicely erecting its crest.
Further it took us some time to realize that besides the Coal-black
Flowerpiercer there was yet another small blackish bird flitting around: Blue-backed
Conebill*. Of course, there were many Great Thrush again. This spot
appeared to be at 2870 m, according to the wrist altitude meter of the
friendly guard of this regional park, who came along on his motorbike. I
forgot the name of the park.
In
La Grita, a cosy small town, we lodged in the motel Los Naranjas, in a
room at a quiet court.
We
left La Grita at dawn, and headed for the hamlet of Zumbador, in order to
bird early along the road to Queniquea. It was tempting to bird also
before Zumbador already, in the fields along the road. But a short stop
produced no more than the usual Blue-gray Tanager and Bananaquit. In
Zumbador, which is again on a sort of pass at about 2700 m (with some
restaurants for a hot soup), we took the road to Queniquea, which is to
the left, and saw most of the birds along the first 1 or 2 km. There is a
beautiful dwarf forest again, with a bit higher trees than yesterday (5 to
8 m). As the wind was rather strong, we had to look for sheltered spots,
but presumably the birds did so too. Surprisingly, we started again with a
Red-crested Cotinga. On this same spot, just a few 100 m after Zumbador,
and right after a last, single house to the left, we saw White-throated
Tyrannulet, many Orange-throated Sunangel chasing around the trees, three
species of Flowerpiercer: Coal-black, Masked* and Bluish*,
and apart from the usual Great Thrush yet a Slaty Brush-Finch*. A
bit further on, the forest is slightly denser. There we spotted an Andean
Guan*, flying across the forested slope, and Band-tailed Pigeon*,
White-fronted Redstart (two bathing in the gutter of the road), the lovely
Pearled Treerunner again, and Citrine Warbler.
Driving
down towards San Christóbal, we entered again the subtropical and
tropical zones. Halfway down there is a small picnic park, which looked
promising for birding, but there was still too much wind alas:
Blue-and-White Swallow, Tropical Kingbird, Black Phoebe. Further down,
just before one of the bigger bridges, there is a wide dirt road to the
left, going to the Chorro Nature Park. A short stop at start of the dirt
road produced Chestnut-collared Swift* (a large dark swift), a Bat
Falcon* eating insects on the wing, Tropical Parula, and a huge
blue Morpho butterfly. Meanwhile, we see gradually more Turkey Vulture. Up
till now we mostly saw Black.
We
wanted to visit the day park of La Petrolia intensively. So we pressed on
to Rubio, where we checked in at the hotel El Marques. They don't have a
garage or closed parking lot, but around the corner lives a kind lady who
hires out her garage (Bs 200). After arranging this, and having taken a
short nap, we set out for La Petrolia. The hotel lady had precisely
indicated how we could come there, and had provided us with a road map of
Tachira (from National Car Rental). After leaving the small town by the
Av. 7, there is a wide bifurcation, with a sign for La Arquitrana (the
alternative name for La Petrolia) to the left. This road is in bad shape,
but goes trough beautiful shaded coffee plantations (forest nearly).
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Then
we put the car in front of the cafe ("Grande Restaurante") 100 m
from the park, and took the path to the river. At the garden fences at the
start of the path, we studied three seedeaters. One was easy - the
Yellow-bellied Seedeater. The other two were difficult, and could only be
identified after checking (back home) the guides of Costa Rica and
Colombia as immature male (probably Ruddy-breasted) Seedeater and
second-year male Gray Seedeater*. Further we saw Tropical Parula,
and a large black woodpecker flying in the distance. At the river, a
lovely place with a hanging bridge just 100 m or so from the road, we saw
Southern Rough-winged Swallow, Green Kingfisher, Solitary Sandpiper,
Roadside Hawk, Crested Oropendula, many Black and Turkey Vultures, and a
group of tiny swifts with a very short tail ('only wings') - Short-tailed
Swift*. Further species were Crested Caracara, Ruddy Ground Dove, Social
Flycatcher on a telephone pole, Black Phoebe and Streaked
Flycatcher*.
That
night we had a good dinner at the restaurant called El Caldero. The walls
are nicely decorated with old-time photographs and woollen tapestry. The
restaurant is near a central plaza on the other side of the main road. Of
course we went there by car (the streets are too dark), and were able to
park the car in view of our table.
We
left the hotel at about 7 h, and headed once more for La Petrolia. We
wanted to be at the airport at about 14 h, and planned (thanks to the road
map we got yesterday) to go there directly from La Petrolia, so we would
not come back in Rubio. About halfway the 8 km or so to La Petrolia we
made a short stop: Green-rumped Parrotlet, White-lined Tanager, Tropical
Parula, Silverbeaked Tanager, American Redstart and Streaked Flycatcher.
Then
we stayed in the tiny park from 8 (opening time) till 11.30 h. Yesterday
it was rather windy, now there was no wind but some very light rain, the
first rain of the trip. As there are many open picnic shelters in the
park, we managed to keep on birding. At the entrance we saw Cattle Tyrant,
Saffron Finch, Rufous-tailed Hummingbird, White-winged Becard* and
Squirrel Cuckoo. Further on we met the Yellow-tufted Woodpecker again,
three of them pestering a Red-crowned Woodpecker. Further species were
Bare-faced Ibis (on the lawn), Boat-billed Flycatcher, White-vented
Plumeleteer*, Blue-necked Tanager, Burnished-buff Tanager*,
Rufous-browed Peppershrike, Thick-billed Euphonia (male).
Seemingly, there was another Euphonia too. Only afterwards, on the basis
of the descriptions in the guide of Costa Rica, we were able to identify
it as juvenal male Thick-billed Euphonia in its first breeding season. It
showed nesting behaviour indeed. From the nearby forest we heard a Rufous-vented
Chachalaca. Near the small buildings in the park we saw a House Wren.
Then we witnessed the display of two very, very small birds, probably
Pygmy-Tyrants. They swirled constantly in an 8-loop around two bushes!
After a Smoky-brown Woodpecker, an Elaenia (clear crest, white below), and
a Northern Waterthrush we saw a Rufous-tailed Hummingbird bathing on a
banana leaf. It simply swam across the leaf! So we had some more advantage
of the rain, apart from the fact that the temperatures stay rather low.
The park abounds in hummingbirds, probably most Rufous-tailed.
The
road from La Petrolia to the main road from San Christóbal to Santo
Domingo was very scenic, and drove there very slowly. Nevertheless, we
definitely wanted to have ample time at the airport, and this proved to be
wise. On the busy main road, we came to a halt because of an accident far
down along the road. The custom here is to wait for the police and not
remove the cars after an accident. After some 10 minutes we had a talk
with the truck driver behind us, and we said that we were happy to have
plenty of time left for our plane. Then he told us that the day before, he
had had to wait somewhere for three hours because of an accident. So we
became a bit nervous. But after some 30 minutes more, we gradually started
driving again, and arrived at the airport with still ample time left for
having a dinner and returning the car to the friendly Avis employee.
Strolling a bit around on the parking lot I heard and then saw - without
binoculars here, this is also a military airport - a last tick of the trip,
the Striped Cuckoo. Back to part 1: verp94p1.html
(Names
as in the field guide of Venezuela. Sequence too, generally following the colour
plates.)
HP
= Henri Pittier National Park (Rancho Grande) Back to part 1 |
